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In the Khutzeymateen, a sub-adult ‘blond’ female grizzly bear – mirrored on the high tide – looks up from her breakfast of sedge as we pass by in our small boat. At this time of year, bears can eat in the region of 45kg of sedge, grasses and other roots per day. On the east side of the estuary behind her, remains of winter in the form of ice slides down the mountainside are still clearly visible.

